So, I’m deep in my Friendsgiving planning for this weekend and I think I finally understand — and really, it’s about time, Deb — why Thanksgiving is so daunting, even for people who like to cook: it’s the volume.


I mean, maybe you come from a small family and your Thanksgiving dinner is for 4 or 6 people. That sounds lovely. It’s still a lot of cooking but I bet your one year-oldat least weighs less than your bird. (Not to self: photo op!) 20 people or more is completely the norm at our family gatherings and we’re having 16 friends this weekend in our I-won’t-even-tell-you-the-square-footage apartment because you’ll either start clucking your tongue in a completely undeserved pity party (woe is us, we live in Manhattan, said nobody you should be friends with, ever) or start sending us house listings in Montclair (coughgrandma). I’m looking at the yield on my usual recipes and then trying to multiply them by three and write a grocery list and it’s basically like: All The Butter Ever Made + A Gallon or Two Of Stock + then I burst into tears, text my husband the list and he schleps everything, in case you were ever wondering who the actual beauty/brains behind this operation actually is.

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Last week I established myself as Team Casserole when it comes to the planning of Thanksgiving sides. This week, let me also reiterate my longstanding membership in the Slab Pie Charter. Slab pies — basically, any pie you love, just about doubled and stretched into a jellyroll pan — are pie for dozen (er, a dozen and a half) and there’s nothing not to love about that. Because the filling is thinner and less weighty, I find par-baking of the bottom crusts unnecessary (praise-hands emoji) and also they bake in half to 2/3 of the time. They also are easier to store; I have this one in the freezer as we speak.

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